Friday 26 November 2010

I thing its saturday

Driving to Anuradhapura (up near the former war zone) on Friday.

Its all very well driving to European standards, here its not the same, nor are the sign postings, indication of towns is rare. One per road per town if I miss it I could end up anywhere. So maximum attention.
There is no little or no indication, brake lights often don't work, side and main lights aren't used at night, or if they are on full beam. They drive on either side of the road depending on the closest distance to their destination, less petrol I assume and therefore safer for the environment.

Its a very verdant place, plants pack the land, in between the growth of trees, pretty brick houses with tiled roofs sprout , the land is flat dominated by rice fields, edged with banana tree, coconut trees with their nut clusters of golden orbs. Although its autumn, large hibiscus bushes flower their hearts out, large red flowers with yellow stamens, ice cream coloured flowers with deep red centres. Small black cormorants and white egrets stalk the waters edge. Its very pretty but you cannot see far from the road for the dense vegetation.

There has been severe rain earlier, the road is flooded, about a foot deep, and flowing fast, I gingerly edge the car forward, its sliding side ways and I cannot stop it fortunately there is not a massive drop as in a film,  if I came off the road I am more likely to drown,  I get through the 50ft flooded section.

This journey takes 5 hours to go 125 miles.  Because of the recent civil war the area is under scrutiny by the army. I am flagged down, the car has tinted windows, I push the passenger window button, slowly the window opens. The soldier looks in at me apprehensively, I look at him nervously, he speaks to me in Sinhalese, I say "is there a problem"? The next move is his. After 10 seconds he waves a big goodbye and smiles, registering his rifle back on his shoulder.

Its still overcast with splashes of heavy rain, parts of the road have been washed away. A large mongoose the size of a Sainsburys baguette ( the party size that you smoother in butter and garlic) scoots across the road.
A  red and yellow umbrella with no handle shelters moves slowly along the road a very small child squatting underneath shelters from the downpour.

A mother mongoose and I think with three babes scamper across the road, she picks the slowest one up in her mouth, I only just miss them.

I find a cheap hotel, book in and go to get a meal. Cashew nuts, fried noodles and a beer.

I return to the hotel, I cannot shut the grill above the window, the edgy noise of a jungle comes through into my room in the blackness of the night. In the morning I must remember to check my bags for scorpions and snakes just in case they decide to go sightseeing with me.

Saturday morning, I write this blog> Now off to the ruined city of Anuradhapura. I might drive to Trincomalee tonight.

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