Kolkota 7/11 Upbeat blog

5th November mid afternoon, on my way to the Victorian Museum.
Called in at the Kolkota Cricket Club for directions am met by a wonderful waxed moustached gentleman with grey hair and blue eyes. He stands next to an ancient Royal Enfield motorbike, but in a turquoise finish?

The VM is a huge italianesque victorian white stone edifice with serious murghal overtones standing in its own grounds. Its nearly as grand as the Taj Mahal.

The museum is full of hot air, there are many electric fans whirring the heat around. Its a showcase of pre Raj, the Raj and post Raj. With many swords and flintlock guns, picture of past PMs and Lords etc. A Jamini Roy has some outstanding paintings, with such a delicate touch, she must be a female artist.

I am nearly asleep with the heat when my eye catches a sign that says during WW2 , many millions of refugees fled to Kolkota away from conflict. Where many ended up starving to death because the Government insisted that all provisions went to the front line in the war effort. No wonder we lost the empire.

Walked back to the hotel, somewhat shocked at this news. Decided to stay in rather than celebrate Divali, also all the streets look the same at night. I have got lost more than once at night.

6th November.

Need walking sandals repaired, street cobbler lines them with rubber, they are perfect, just for (Indian keyboards do not have a pound symbol) 1.5
Off to bank to exchange some cheques. Stopped at bank entrance by a security guard with the biggest two-bore shotgun I have ever seen, whatever animal it was designed for they must now be all extinct. I wait for 15 mins to be served,
I notice that the false ceiling in the area I am sitting is held up by bamboo poles propping it up. The lighting battens and aircon units are hanging on just their wires. Sorry we dont do money exchange on a Saturday. I dont blame them, what with the ceiling nearly around their ears.

I go up to Kumartali, where all the Hindu effigies are sculpted, on the ghats many Hindus worship and wash themselves in the Hoogli river. There is much music, large sound systems blare out modern and traditional film music.

I take the ferry down to the famous Haora Bridge, a teenager with badly deformed legs asks me for 2 rupees, there is an amazing amount of love in his face, his eyes are not yet wearied by begging, his name is Shrabindra, we shake hands and I slip him a 20 rupee note.

My fellow passenger smiles at my gesture and we start talking, he is the Station Master for the Haora Railway Station, about to start a 14 hour shift.

I get a bus to the Botanical Gardens, I do not know if its because its Divali but all the conservatories are closed. At least the giant banyan tree has not moved. Its the largest tree in the world. There are some giant lilly pads to gaze at  I am stopped by a dapper young man and friend, he introduces himself to me a "Vishnu Ramon" apparently he is a CIA agent working in India. He says that all of India must rise up against the Moaist Rebels. I ask him if that excludes the Naxilists, my reply throws him in a sort of political headlock and he decides to leave.

Decide to eat at the much rated Trincas Indian/Chinese restaurant, good live band of electronic sitars baking two lady singers. That's as good as it got.
My potatoes stuffed with paneer were undercooked. The rice with geera was good but the main course of peas and mushrooms was unfathomable, the mushrooms were raw, probably the worst Indian meal I had ever eaten. At least the two litres of lager were compensation.

7th November

Pack bags, check out, but leave main bag in hotel.

Walk round the corner to have breakfast at this jolly cafe. They are sad that I am leaving for Darjeeling today. Walk to Indian Museum, its very grand and dusty, many families walk around looking at the many exhibits. Most of the stuffed mammals seem to have got their eyes out of the same box. It was a pleasant place to while away the day.

I will miss the wonderful people of Kolkota, Good Bye.

Hello Darjeeling