Kolkota

4/11 Arrived In Kolkota from Dubai, at 8.00 in the morning, Its blisteringly hot, buses,cars and taxis constanly hoot, its deafening, traffic is not moving, choking fumes,..... not at all nice. In fact I have forgotten how daunting and Indian City is, I end up at Howah Rail Station, it is mayhem, thank god its not rush hour. Find the prebooked Aafreen Hotel mid afternoon, its cool a/con rooms are welcome. Rest awhile, then take taxi south to the Kali Temple, where in a huge16C temple there is a huge black goddess Kali, with red diamond shaped eyes staring at you in the temple. Outside there is a covered yard with U shaped blocks for the daily ritual of goats. Once a year a cow is slaughtered and offered up to Kali.  I make an offering for Ganga, Zoe, and Nicholas but no animals are hurt. I walk back to the hotel via the Maidan a huge open tree lined park. Am told off for walking on the grass, what next. Get lost in the darkening City, eventualy find hotel . Had masala dosai delivered to my room, what exquisite service.

 

5/11Today is Divali (the festival of light)i, there is a cool breeze, less traffic, less fumes actually walking is very pleasant. On my way to the Victoria Museum I visit the old Christian cemetery, its full of 18C mausoleums all from the British Raj, its like something out of Jungle Book I half expect Mowgli to appear amongst the birds geckos and butterflies. There are mossy green paths between huge overhanging Mango trees, and its so cool. Some of the stone/marble mausoleums are as big as a house, pyramid in shape, some just urns on pilasters, there is a Greek temple, covered in vines.  It's an magnificent edifice to the end of the British Raj. Many of the graves have a personal history cut into the stonework, their jobs, their ranks, their deaths, a Mr McKensie was assassinated. 

 

For Divali (start of the Indian New Year) The many streets have makeshift (hand painted paper and wood) temples with wonderful Kali .  Although there is a pervading sense of dirt,dust and decay, crumbling roads, paths, buildings...everyone is clean, sparkling, most washing themselves and their clothes in the street. Taxis, vans, shops and stalls all being washed down . Amongst all the squalor the families who live on the street have an amazing pride in their daily appearance. Looking forward to joining in thr revelries that start at 11pm.