Saturday, Mirissa

Friday pm

In the next Bay, hiding in the rocks from the breaking surf, crabs the size of a digestive biscuit cling on, then will jump 10 inches to the next rock, they have a dark grey shell with bright red claws. The backs of their shells are marked like a fine white lace or filigree work.

In the dark I can see embers from a beach fire, floating in the breeze. But they are not hot embers but fire flies, small, but with a very bright LED bum, its so bright. They are called something like Halamadidias .

I was asked whether I wanted to spend 8000 rupees or 45 quid to go and see (or possibly not see) Orcas, swimming off the shore. I hear later that this can be quite a dangerous trip.

Mirissa is very soothing, (a big thank you to One F in Geoffrey {from a Pixies song} for suggesting the place ) a good place to spend a couple of days relaxing before returning home. I head out to look for somewhere to eat. There are plenty of shacks with tables and chairs and a real variety of menu of fresh fish. The shacks are covered in rope lights making it festive and inviting.

One shack is playing "lovers rock" reggae, are rare treat in these parts. I stop and sit down and order a (Jah) Lion Beer. I am served by the DJ, his name is "Cheeky", he joins me and asks where am I from in not bad English.

"No woman no cry" booms out from the massive speaker system, the waves seem to know the rhythm and crash in time. I order fried calamari and potato salad. Another beer and then another. I talk to the manager Bobby, he is a fisherman, but for 6 months can make more money with a tourist shack..

Manuel from S Italy sits at the next table, he is a professional photographer working his way round India and the Far East, he worked in England, learnt the language well. We agree that because of its extremes  India is more exciting to photograph. Sri lankaa is very laid back.

A shack up the beach plays green lasers on the waves and braking surf, the effect is dazzling. thee fire is still burning on the beach, its smoke is dissected by the laser, its green plane looks like a map of the world. The music is Spanish Techno and House (or is that Peublo?) a few beers later and we are all up dancing. I retire at 12, my hotel (Hotel Sunset) has locked all the gates to the beach, I have to break in to my hotel.
Fortunately the picket fence comes away easily, I replace it exactly, I can use it again tonight. I am meeting Manuel at Bobby's 7pm Saturday evening.

I remember as I doze off that on Tuesday on the way back from the Elephant Orphanage, I was following Michelle and Wouter in the Tuctuc taxi that they had hired, we were on our way back to Kandy. Suddenly an oncoming motor bike was hit with a thud, by a cow just deciding to cross the road, the biker falls but is all right , the bike falls over. The cow just trots off and starts grazing as though nothing had happened.

Saturday.

I wake up at 6am, rush down to the beach, its not far 5 seconds maybe. I try to catch the sunrise behind the palm trees, how predictable am I? Small fish leap across the the edge of the shallow surf, just where the curve of the lap decides to return back to the sea. A fisherman with a throw net waits expectantly, he calls to the fish repeatedly. Its a sunny day I have an English Breakfast, toast, two fried eggs, coffee, brilliant fresh made mango juice. However the jam is a lurid ruby/cerise colour and would not look out of place on a Norwich Dance Floor.