Kolkota 7/11
I was going to write the 2nd blog of the trip with all the fun things I have done and people I have met.
However, a trip to India is not without the realisation that we in England have it good, yet we moan and complain about our lot, it palls in significance compared to living on the streets in this city. The statement " a walk in the street" fails to conjure up any sort of true picture.
In the 18 century built by British commerce, Kolkota (formerly Culcutta) was once a truly amazing city with beautiful buildings very much like our own cities. The colonial city had broad tree lined streets with broad pavements leading to grand parks.
200 Monsoon seasons have taken their toll, the area I have stayed in nr Suder St, just a simple walk is more like fell walking at sea level. Not for the feint hearted or those of a nervous disposition. The roots of the trees have pushed up and displaced the pavee pavement. The Municipal Corporation in its endless battle to improve the crumbling infrastructure seems to have taken its justifiable wrath out on the pavements. Man holes are left open, pot holes are full of water, large piles of soil lie like burial mounds in a cemetery, the finish earth polished smooth by many feet. Deep fissures that I dare not look into. There is grime and rotting filth everywhere
There is no rubbish collection, its just left in the street, valuable commodities like wire, paper and plastic bottles are gleaned by children trying to survive. After they have finished, crows and feral dogs scavenge the remains, eventually the detritus is cleared away.
The trees do provide a welcome shade from the sun, a redoubt against the smokey choking traffic, with its constantly blaring horns. Crossing the road is like playing traffic only the other guys don't play by the same rules. They drive on the left like in Britain; and often on the right too.
I hope this is not too depressing, there is a good ending.
The broad pavements allow for street traders to set up shop, every inch of street frontage is packed full of small businesses. Most shops are less than 8ft across, their are no Departmental Stores in the area. There is of course no street lighting.
You see more faces in a blink than you do in a "Wheres Wally?" picture, everywhere there are just hundreds and hundreds of local people. Most live close to or on the streets. Many sleep on the streets, on rags just managing to get by, their begging is far less aggressive than the beggers of Delhi. Yet they shine in their clothes, babies, toddlers, children, parents and adults are outstandingly clean, they wash daily in public in sluices with hand pumps, clothes hand washed and then hung out to dry on a railing at the side of the road.
This blog is for the street people of Kolkota and their will to survive, with dignity.
John my dear friend - you are seeing the real India, not the sanitised India that we see on the news or those that see it though expensive tours in air conditioned coaches with little contact with the locals. I remember seeing roundabouts that in England would be decked with flowers, instead covered with dozens of families eking out a meagre living in squalor in tiny dwellings made of corrugated tin with tatty polythene and wood roofs. India is certainly a country of extreme beauty and poverty all at the same time...
ReplyDeleteHi John,
ReplyDeleteGreat to see you have a blog now too, am enjoying it - please keep the writing up, it's great to hear about a country I haven't visited for almost 15 years!
We have a blog of our South Pacific adventure here if you are interested: http://www.twentyfifth.co.uk
Hope all is well, enjoy India, it's incredible
Kind regards,
Chris & Siobhan